DIY Cutting/Craft Table
Materials Needed
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(3) 24"x48" Edge-Glued Pine Project Panels
(2) 12 ft 1"x4" Pine Board
Cut (4) 33 5/16" boards and (2) 14 3/8" boards at the store.
1"x72" Round Poplar Dowel
1 qt. Oil-Based Semi-Transparent Satin Interior Stain - We used the color Early American
(2-4) Foam Brushes
400-600 grit Sanding Paper (We loved using these), for sanding between Polyurethane coats
1/16" Drill Bit
7/64" Drill Bit
1 1/2" Hole Saw
Phillips Head Steel Hex Shank Screw Driver Bit
Last, but certainly not least, I topped it off with this huge cutting mat that I love!
Instructions for Building Your Cutting Table
Assemble the Cube Shelves
Build two Better Homes and Gardens cube shelves according to the provided instructions.
Align the Panels
Lay two pine project panels face down, aligning the 48" sides together.
Drill Pilot Holes
Use a 1/16" drill bit to drill pilot holes 1/2" deep. (Tip: Wrap masking tape around the drill bit at the 1/2" mark to prevent drilling through the tabletop.)
Secure the Braces
With one person holding the panels together, attach the mending braces using two 1/2" #4 wood screws for each brace.
Add the Third Panel
Repeat steps 3-6 to attach the third panel, ensuring a secure and level tabletop.
Your cutting table top is now ready for the next steps in assembly!
Attaching the Tabletop to the Cube Shelves
Position the Cube Shelves
Keep the tabletop lying face down.
Flip the assembled cube shelves upside down and place them on the tabletop.
Align one corner of each shelf with a corner of the tabletop, ensuring the long edges of the shelves line up with the long edges of the tabletop.
Mark Screw Placement
Inside each cube shelf, mark spots for 14-16 screws total (7-8 screws per shelf) to secure the shelves to the tabletop.
Precise measurements aren’t necessary, but aim for about 4 screws per panel to evenly distribute the support.
Adding the Legs
Position the First Leg
While the table is still upside down, take one of the 33 5/16" pine boards and place it against the side of a cube shelf at the batting storage end.
Mark Bracket Placement
Position three steel corner brackets:
Two brackets at the seam where the cube shelf and the leg meet.
One bracket at the seam where the tabletop and the leg meet.
Mark pilot hole locations for each bracket. (Refer to the photo for proper placement; note that the photo shows the table upright, but this step is performed upside down.)
Drill Pilot Holes
Use a 1/16" drill bit to drill pilot holes 1/2" deep at the marked locations.
(Tip: Apply masking tape to protect the cube shelves and stained legs from scuffs while drilling.)
Secure the First Leg
Attach the corner brackets to the leg using 1/2" #4 wood screws, securing four screws per bracket (12 screws per leg).
Repeat for the Second Leg
Follow steps 1-4 to install another leg on the opposite side of the batting storage end.
Attach the Remaining Legs
Install the final two legs at the outside corners of the tabletop. Use one steel corner bracket per leg, attaching them securely with the same method as above.
Once all four legs are installed, your cutting table will have sturdy support and be nearly complete!
Attaching the Brace Boards to the Legs
Mark Lines for Brace Placement
With the table still upside down, use a pencil to mark lines at 8 1/4" and 11 3/4" from the bottom side of the tabletop on the inside and outside of all four legs.
(Tip: Use a quilting ruler to measure and ensure the lines are square.)
Mark Screw Placement
On the inside of each leg, mark the placement for four screws between the marked lines. Precise measurements aren’t necessary; spread them out evenly.
Position the Brace Board
Place one of the 14 3/8" pine boards between the marked lines on the outside of two legs.
(Note: Attaching the braces to the inside of the legs will not leave room for the batting roll.)
Drill Pilot Holes
From the inside of the legs, drill pilot holes 1 1/4" deep using a 7/64" drill bit. Ensure the holes go through the legs and into the brace board.
(Tip: Mark the drill bit with masking tape at 1 1/4" to avoid drilling all the way through the brace board.)
Secure the Brace Board
Attach the brace board to the legs using eight 1 1/4" #8 wood screws.
Repeat for the Other Brace Board
Drill Holes for the Dowel Rod (Optional)
If you plan to store a batting roll, use a 1 1/2" hole saw to drill a hole in the center of each brace board to accommodate a dowel rod.
(Skip this step if batting storage is not needed.)
Your cutting table is now equipped with sturdy braces, and it's ready for batting roll storage if desired!
Adding the Finishing Touches
Turn the Table Upright
Lift the table from the batting storage side first so it rests on the short side of the cube shelves.
Slowly complete the arc by lowering the batting storage legs to the floor.
Important: Do not lift the table by the tabletop alone on the batting storage side. Always grip from within the cubes to avoid damage.
Position the Table
To move the table to its final location, grip from within the cubes for support.
Avoid lifting the table by the tabletop alone, especially near the batting storage side.
Optional: Storing a Batting Roll
If you plan to store a batting roll, follow these steps:
Prepare the Dowel Rod
Use a hacksaw to cut the dowel rod to 53" in length.
Thread the rod through the center of the batting roll.
Install the Dowel Rod
Insert the dowel rod with the batting roll through the holes in the leg braces.
Position the roll so that it unwinds from below while pulling over the table. (Refer to the photo for positioning.)
Attach a Corner Guard
To protect the batting from snags as it is pulled over the tabletop, attach a corner guard to the table edge above the batting roll.
Secure the guard with finishing nails for a smooth, snag-free surface.